30k Mechanicum Magos Dominus completed & tutorial


I’ve completed my Magos / Archmagos for my 30k Mechanicum army. It’s the Games-Workshop Tech Priest Dominus model, and it seems to work great for a 30k magos / archmagos. I really love this model. Such a cool, detailed, and characterful miniature, and was super fun to assemble and paint. I wanted to show my final touches on this guy and maybe talk a little bit about the process/steps I used to paint him up. I’m so happy I picked Mechanicum for my first 30k army and while I was painting this guy up I really cemented as to why – he’s so deliciously weird and different than anything I’ve worked on in the past. Check out the pics of the finished work as well as my notes on how I painted him up!


So I’ve found a great formula to paint all my mechanicum “humanoids” (eg: non-cybernetica) and I’ll walk through that formula here. I didn’t take step by step screen shots (my bad) but I can list them out and hopefully you can follow along.

First let’s acknowledge that red is a tricky color to get right. The key is really several thin coats. Almost watery thin. Play around with your consistency to get it right, but start thinner and work your way up thicker to get a process and a result you are comfortable with. The results are great if you can be patient!

The painting guide:

  • Prime black – I use Krylon Black Cammo spray paint (super tough and nice and flat).
  • Base coat all metalics with GW Leadbelcher.
  • Wash all metalics with GW Nuln Oil. Allow to dry thoroughly.
  • Dry brush all metallics with GW Necron Compound.
  • Carefully base coat all robes / cloth with GW Khorne Red – nice solid coat. Keep in mind with reds – its better to use several thin coats than a single thick coat. Khorne Red is actually very nice in that it covers amazingly well for a red – but don’t hesitate to thin this paint. You’ll get a much nicer finish.
  • Wash all robe areas with Agrax Earthshade (aka: “liquid talent”). Allow to dry thoroughly.
  • Using very thin GW Khorne Red, go back over the high areas of the robes to clean up the darkening of the Agrax Earthshade. It’s important to use a really thinned paint here (thicker than a wash though) to cover this and make a nice base for the highlights.
  • Using a thinned Bright Red color (I use Delta Ceramcoat Bright Red), make progressive layers of highlight on the highest portions of the robes. This will take several coats, be patient. On this model, I probably made 5-6 thin coats over the highlights of the robes to get a nice clean, solid red highlight.
  • Paint all the brass areas with a base coat of GW Balthazar Gold.
  • Wash all brass areas with a 1:1 mix of GW Agrax Earthshade and GW Reikland Fleshshade.
  • Highlight all brass areas on edges (with moderation – easy to go overboard here) with GW Shining Gold.
  • Painting the greenish yellowish tanks on top: start with a base coat of GW Flash Gitz yellow
  • Put a line of any dark green paint along the base of the tanks – this is to simulate a thicker color of green as you go down the tank.
  • Wash the yellow areas with GW Waywatcher Green. I do a couple of washes here to really bring out the greenish glow – do as many washes as you like to taste.
  • Eyes – start with a dot of GW Scorpion Green. Then wash with GW Waywatcher green. Then do a tiny dot of white in the center.
  • For cables and such – color to taste. Yellow and Green and Red seem like good complimentary choices.
  • Skull on the servo-skull: base coat with very thinned white (I use Delta Ceramcoat but any pure white will do). Wash with very thin Delta Ceramcoat Dark Brown, or can also use GW Agrax Earthshade (straight – no thinning).
  • Red occuli on the servo skull: Paint bright red. Wash with GW Nuln Oil. Put a dot of white off-center.
  • For the conversion beamer: Base coat white (thinned, may take a few thin coats, but get a solid white on there, best result is with several coats of thinned white).
  • Then on conversion beamer, using thinned GW Ice Blue, make a progressive mix of pure white to 4:1 white / GW ice blue and make a gradient of white to blue from the center of the coil to the edges of the coil. Let dry thoroughly.
  • Last step for the conversion beamer – wash the entire coil with GW Drakenhof Nightshade.
  • Paint the hand your favorite color of flesh, and I washed with GW Reikland Fleshshade.

And there you have it! If you followed the above rubric, you should have something like this!

The results…

I hope you enjoyed this walk-through! Happy to asnwer any questions – comments and feedback welcomed!


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