Plague Marine Painting Tutorial



It’s been some time since I’ve posted anything about painting Plague Marines the “Cranky Way”, but I received a request to describe how I do it, and not wanting to let a fellow gamer (and Nurgle follower!) down, I thought I’d put pen to paper to describe how it’s done. At some point I’ll do this with pictures and commentary to really show the techniques, but suffice it to say, that in general, if you follow this formula, you’ll have Plague Marines that look pretty close to mine.

So here goes…

  • Clean model with hot soapy water and rinse thoroughly, and allow to dry
  • Spray model with Tamiya Fine Surface Primer L
  • Spray model with Rust-oleum Army Green Specialty Camouflage spray paint. Try not to spray on too heavy.
  • If desired, do a 1:1 mix of GW’s Nurgling Green and Castellan Green to cover any missed spots
  • Wash entire model with GW’s Agrax Earthshade and allow to dry completely. Make sure you don’t put on too heavy (lose detail) or too light (not enough shading). Just cover the model. Allow to dry completely.
  • Dry brush entire model with GW’s Terminatus Stone. Make sure the brush is really wiped off – wipe off on a paper towel, then either dry brush on the model’s bolter, base, or your finger to make sure all the excess is off. This stuff is really thick and can lay down a lot of color with a dry brush, so the key is to get it as light as you can. Do a sufficient dry brush to cover all the detail but still be able to see the green and brown underneath.
  • Once that’s dry, wash entire model with GW’s Athonian Cammoshade. Allow to dry completely.
  • Use GW’s Abaddon Black to paint shoulder pad trim, bolters, chainswords/close combat weapons, backpack vents, backpack lower vents, any chainmail, chains, helmet spikes, etc.
  • Use any solid white paint to color things like bone, horn, flesh, faces, skulls, boils, etc. Use very thin white – you’re not trying to get a solid color, you’re just trying to kill the brown and green that was painted onto the model from before.
  • Wash bone areas with a thin brown wash, then a 1:1 thin brown:yellow wash. Allow to dry completely, then drybrush with a thin 1:1:1 brown:yellow:white drybrush.
  • Paint cables, leg and arm joints, and boils a thin orange. Then wash with GW’s Agrax Earthshade, making sure the shade gets deep into the holes in the boils, ribs of cables, etc.
  • To finish the boils, do a 1:1 mix of white and orange and paint the centers of the boils, leaving some brown and orange around the edges of the boils. Then cover entire boil with a thin layer (not thinned, just not too much) GW’s Lamenter’s Yellow Glaze.
  • Paint chaos icons, loincloths, flies, or other Nurgle icons GW’s old Mecharite Red. Not sure what this translates to in GW’s new paint range. Then wash with GW’s Agrax Earthshade.
  • For bolters and hand weapons and backpack exhaust vents, paint rust. This is a mix of blotting various layers of GW’s old Beastial Brown (not sure what new color is), then a 1:1 mix of Bestial Brown and Mecharite Red, and then a 1:1:5 mix of Bestial Brown, Mecharite Red, and orange paint. Make sure to leave some black spots. Then wash entire weapon or rusted area with GW’s Agrax Earthshade. Once model is complete you can go back on black spots and highlight metal showing through or wear areas with GW’s old Boltgun Metal.
  • Paint entire base black.
  • Drybrush base your favorite color brown – will probably take a few coats. I tend to do a light drybrush of 1:1 mix of white and brown first so that the Brown layers have an easier time showing up with subsequent dry brushes.
  • Paint edge of base black.

Well I hope that helps. Some time in the future as I paint another set of Plagues I’ll take pictures at each step and provide additional commentary on techniques. This should get you going on the colors, steps, and order to paint up your very own Plaguers! Happy decaying! πŸ™‚


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